Saturday, October 23, 2010

Bacon fat

I’ve got the following marinating, continuing the French-Italian cook-off from the Culinary Art Institute’s 1954 cook books for each cuisine. It calls for frying up bacon and reserving the fat to brown the meat in. I imagine some would balk at this, but it didn’t used to be unusual. When I was young, everyone had a fat can in the fridge, or by the stove, to pour the drippings into. Often it was a recycled coffee can.

I don’t actually remember my mom using this reserved fat to cook. I think it was more of a system to keep from pouring the fat down the sink and stopping up the drains. When the can was full, it could easily be tossed and a new one begun. Maybe it’s just the folks I hand around with, but I don’t think people do this much anymore. I haven’t seen the kind of “official” grease jar with a  strainer in years. And folks certainly don’t think of this fat as semi-liquid gold for cooking with. It’s not a matter of misplaced WW II frugality; a couple tablespoons for your cornbread works wonders. Fry up some cabbage in it, or green beans. It doesn’t take a lot. Nor do you have to eat a lot. Moderation in all things, including moderation. It won’t kill you, I promise.

Perhaps thanks to the rise of foodie culture,  Emeril Lagasse’s catch phrase, “Pork fat rules”, and the recession, the grease jar will make a comeback.

Daube de Boeuf à la Provençale (Marinated Beef, Provençal Style)

Set out a large, heavy skillet having a tight fitting cover.

Cut into 2 ½ lbs beef, round or chuck, into 2 inch pieces.
Put into deep bowl with:
1 ½ cups thinly sliced onions
1 cup red wine
4 small carrots, sliced
¼ t thyme
2 cloves garlic, cut in halves
6 peppercorns
3 whole cloves
1 sprig parsley

Marinate 2 to 3 hours, turning the pieces from time to time in the marinade. Remove beef from marinade and set aside to drain thoroughly.

Cook 8 slices bacon, diced in the skillet, turning frequently. Pour off and set aside fat. When bacon is evenly crisp and browned, set aside.

Return to skillet and heat over medium heat:
¼ c bacon drippings
1 T olive oil
1 T lard

Brown meat on all sides in the hot fats. Add the carrots and onions from the marinade, the bacon pieces and 2 medium tomatoes, peeled and chopped. Heat the marinade, strain, and pour oven the meat. Add 1 cup red wine. Cover and simmer about 2 hours or until meat is tender. Serve meat and sauce over cooked macaroni.


Despite how good this sounded, I'd only give it 3 1/2 out of 5 stars. I have a recipe for Corsican beef that's very similar and I guess I expected it to taste like that. That has mushrooms, which I don't usually even like, but had a much deeper richer flavor. 


So I've decided: Italy wins! Sorry France.

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